Category — Restaurant Reviews

Yesterday I dined at Big Star for lunch. Big Star is a relatively new fast casual Mexican hot spot in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighborhood (1531 N. Damen). It’s owned and operated by a group of Chicago restauranteurs (including Paul Kahan of Avec, Blackbird, and The Publican). Big Star is inside of an old gas station, still complete with large, metal garage doors. Inside is a wrap-around bar, stocking plenty of high end beer, whiskey, and tequila, with stools and booths surrounding. There’s also a quick service window where customers can walk up and order food to go. What kind of food does Big Star serve you ask? Tacos and tostadas.

The menu is very limited, and also deceivingly cheap at first. Available are a variety of tacos and tostadas with lamb, pork belly, fish, and chicken and topped with anything from pineapple to radishes. Each of the tacos and tostadas are priced at $4 or less, however they are quite small. I would suggest ordering at least 3-4 items, which can put your total well over $15/person, not including beer or cocktails. The food is quite good however. I had both chicken and pork belly tacos as well as a mouthwatering fish tostada. Our group also ordered the Queso Fundito, a small casserole dish of bubbling cheese, roasted poblanos, and chorizo served with warm tortillas.

Big Star is ideologically similar to Urban Belly (Big name chef opens small, fast casual dining spot), although I think the food at Urban Belly is far more unique and mind-blowing. Nevertheless, Big Star is an eclectic place to grab a quick taco and a beer. Although I have yet to go in the late evening, I imagine they get extremely busy as they transition from restaurant to full-on bar.

Big Star, 1531 N. Damen Ave, Chicago, IL, 60622. Opens at 11:30 AM everyday.
Big Star does not have an official website, but they do have a blog!

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Urban Bellyis a noodle and dumpling restaurant in the Chicago neighborhood of Avondale. Chef Bill Kim, of fine dining fame at Le Lan, Charlie Trotter’s, and Trio, among others, opened this counter-service gem tucked inside of a small strip-mall near Belmont and California Ave (3053 N. California Ave.). The restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of noodles and dumplings of Korean inspiration. Each day, Urban Belly offers seasonal kimchi and a dumpling special. The dumplings are well worth the visit and feature all sorts of flavors and ingredients, from lamb and brandy to foie gras. The noodles are spectacular as well. I suggest the rice noodles with hominy, kimchi, and spicy pork broth. The noodles have a delightfully glutinous texture and are perfect with the spicy broth.

Urban Belly is a counter service restaurant. After ordering you can sit at one of four long tables in the small and minimalist dining room. Instead of chairs Urban Belly has short stools made of old Chinese Elmwood. Eating at Urban Belly on a busy night is a surprisingly enjoyable communal experience, as complete strangers interact around the long dining tables. Urban Belly is B.Y.O.B. Although the menu is pricier than most other counter service restaurants, the quality of food and atmosphere at Urban Belly justifies the price tag. If you live in Chicago, or are planning to visit soon, put Urban Belly on your list of places to eat!

Bill Kim also recently opened Belly Shack in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood, another counter service restaurant offering his unique takes on a myriad of street foods of Asian and Latin-American inspiration.

Shrimp Udon at Urban Belly in Chicago

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